Materials Task
Knitting
and weaving differences:
Knitting and weaving
are two different techniques but mostly gave the same result as a piece of art.
In the process of knitting, it is made by using two-dimensional fabric which is
made there in yarn or also known as thread. In the technique of weaving, the
thread will always be in a straight line running parallel in lengthwise or also
in crosswise. By contrast the yarn which is used in a knitted piece of fabric
follows a course and create a synthetic loop on the top and bottom mean path of
the yarn. A knitted garment can as much as 500% stretch it all depends on the
yarn that is being used as well as the pattern one is busy following. This were
in the beginning what knitting was made for because of the elastic or stretch
to response to the wearer’s notions for example socks even hosiery. The thread
that designers use in creating a weave is most of the time finer that what
designers will use in a knitting pattern and for that reason it gave knitting
the ability to form bulk and less draping that a fabric which if woven.
Different
types of Ribbing:
The reason behind the
design of rib stitches it that your garment doesn’t curl up vertically nor
horizontally and that it remains a flat surface. It is also designed to give
your knitting a rib effect or a vertical ridge. By the use of a basic rib it is
made out of stocking stitch and reverse stocking stitch that is alternated. The
stripes that the ribbing make is also known as wales. The yarn which is use in
ribbing is passed between stiches, from the back of your work for the knit
stiches, to the front for purl stitches. The knitted pieces which is ribbing
will always feel thicker than stocking stitch so it has a firm fit, as well as
it will be knitted in a smaller needle than what is used to knit the rest of
the garment. Knitted ribbing is use in garments for the cuffs, the edged around
the garments, scarves, mats, rugs as well as fitted thick winter garments.
Single
Rib: a Single rib is made out of knit one, purl
one. It is mainly used for the edge of the garments. Single rib is the most
common use for knitted garments and also have the most elasticity.
Double
Rib: By using double rib, it is not limited to
just use as cuffs but can be use right through the whole body if the designer
want a more snuggle fitted garment. The elasticity is is much less in double
rib as it is in single rib.
Other
Stiches that is used as ribbing to form panels: Both
Garter as well as moss stich can be used in the sense of ribbing but is only
use when one need a wider rib.
Farrow Rib
Stitch: This ribbing is much neater than the rest with a
flat appearance and slight stretch because of the moss stitch that took place
between the ribs. When done correctly, both of the sides will look identically
and is a bit more open than a basic rib. It is not made to be used as cuffs
because its elasticity is weak. Each of the rows are knitted the same therefore
it is easier to master the technique.
Sand
Stitch rib: Using the technique of sand stitch ribbing, it is
knitted in a vertical row with a sand stich between every second knitted stich
in a rib pattern. It is mostly use to accommodate wider rib stitch patterns. It
has a very neat finish as well as a different appearance and most of the
elasticity is lost that a proper rib stitch contain. It is made out of a right
and wrong side and is mostly not recommended for scarves neither edgings.
Fisherman’s
Rib: This
technique is originally invented for the fisherman which goes out in cold
winter on the sea. This technique take up much more yarn than other ribbing
almost doubled to be exact. It creates a think, soft spongy feeling garment
where both sides look the same. An advantage of fisherman’s rib stretches both
in width and length and forms deep loose ridges with a soft feeling.
Mock
Fisherman’s rib: Mock
Fisherman’s rib as different from original fisherman rib which gave a more
loose rib with fairly prominent ridges. It mostly have the same characteristics
as other types of ribbing where it has slight elasticity but lies flat and both
sides are the same. It is also no as neatly as Fisherman’s rib but still is
more attractive and always neat.
Different types of Shoulders:
Drop
Shoulder Sleeve:
The drop shoulder
style is one of the simplest design pattern of any style sleeves. The body is
shaped as a rectangular with very little shaping. The body with goes over the
actual shoulder line and is possible that no sleeves is necessary making the
garment into a pullover. The shape of the sleeves are also a basic rectangle
that is finer by the wrist. The sleeve will always be created shorter than the
actual arm size where the upper part of the sleeve does not reach the shoulder.
The length of the upper edge of the sleeve equals two times the depth of the
armscye. When the whole garment is put together the sleeves will form the right
body angle.
Set-In
Sleeve:
The lines of a set in sleeve express itself
as simple but when shaping take place of each individual piece, it became more
complex that what a drop shoulder is. The area of the shoulder is cut away so
that that whole of the arm can be exposed. The armscye begin at the side seam
which then curves to the body in an even increasing slope until the armscye
line is more or less in a vertical line. The sleeve tapers from the bicep line
towards the waist, where above the line of the bicep, the sleeve cap gently
moves towards the shoulder point. Often you get knitted garments that are designed so that the
sleeve cap and front and back armscye are symmetric where in reality, our
bodies aren't that symmetric, but the stretch in knit fabric allows for this
tiny cheat.
The
Raglan Sleeve:
When one want to pull of the casual or
sporty look, raglan was the style to use. Instead of the armscye seam goes
right over the shoulder, the sleeve of a raglan goes from the underarm to the
neckline and results that the back panel, front panel as well as the sleeves
are taper towards the neck. It all depends on what your garment design looks
like, the upper edge of the raglan sleeve will form a substantial part of the
neckline, and also may shape to blend with the curve of the front and backline.
The seam edges of the back panel, front panel, as well as the sleeves are
placed in a straight line which is formed by decreases at regular intervals.
There will sometimes be a curve or as a tweak to fit in correct number of
decreases before running out of the upper body as well as the sleeve rows.
The Dolman Sleeve:
The
Dolman style sleeve is directly formed with the rest of the body, where only
substantial seams are put under the arms. There are a large amount of space
provided under the arms to give movement, where the garment is usually very
loose fitted even if the sleeve forearms are tight. They are usually designed
as a one knitted design in two ways; either knit sideways like cuff to cuff of
knitting from the front to the back. It is possible to alter this shape to
provide angled sleeves with strategically placed increases and decreases or
short rows, or alternatively by working the front and back separately.
Different types of Neck Shapes:
·
V-Neck
·
Crew Neck (a
basic "T-shirt" or "rounded" neck opening)
·
"Sport"
Neck (This neck most likely resemble a crew
neck, except for the front of the yoke is slit open and plackets are knitted on
each side of the opening.)
Gauge in knitted designs:
The term Gauge is both used in machine knitting and
hand knitting. It refers to the number of stiches per inch where in our case if
will work in centimetre and not to what the size of the garment are.it is
measured by a number of stitches or even a number of needles over several
centimetres which is then divided by the centimetres in width.
The gauge will also depend on how many stiches of
the pattern fit into the fabric, the kind of yarn use, what size needle you use
as well as the tension the knitter use. For
example, the ribbing and also the cable patterns tend to
"pull in" which gives more stitches over an identical width than
stockinette, garter, or seed stitch. Even the same stitch produced in two
different ways may produce a different gauge. Thicker yarns will produce larger
stiches that what thinner needles would have produced. Because of the large
stitches that larger needles provide, there will be fewer stitches in a row per
centimetre. By changing one’s needles is the best possible way to have control
over the gauge for any given pattern as well as yarn. The tension of the knitter
plays a big role where it can affect the gauge significantly. One can play
variation gauge in a single garment where when you become more relaxed with the
stitch pattern one will become more relaxed to stitch differently and produce
different gauge. Designers deliberately alter the gauge in a garment usually by
needle size for example the smaller stitches will be knitted with smaller
needles, this is usually used for the collar or the cuffs of the sleeves.
To
produce a knitted garment where the dimensions are given, doesn’t matter if it
is from one's own design or from a published pattern, the gauge must
match as closely as possible; significant differences in gauge will lead to a
deformed garment. Most patterns that once can buy will always suggest gauge for
the project.
What I Did for my Garment:
Because I didn’t had any traditional pieces I could work off
and also the reason of being far from home, it clogged my design thinking,
material wise. Because I focused more on the person I am today and to things I
can access, rather than trying to think into the past and not getting access to
what I was maybe looking for, I decided to focus on tie dye because it stays a
big part in who I am, and the mellow vibe I’m usually in.
T-shirt fabric is the easiest to dye and just my luck it
came already in yarn form. There are 3 different balls in colour wise; black,
white and light grey. The white I took and dyed half of it black making it another
shade of grey, the black I first knitted and then dyed black merging the two
shades of grey into each other.
We had to use the Raglan pattern. At first I was scared because
I’m not a fashion designer and I don’t know how to make garments. We first had
to draw out a regular pattern on paper followed by a raglan pattern. The arms
also had to be worked out. The raglan front and back panels are easier to knit
as the arms are. I chose the colours specifically to contrast the good and the
bad in my life with the vines flowing of the tie dye method much so how my
stories flowed.
The back I started with a 15mm needle, using 50 stitches, I
knitted 12 rows and switched to a 20mm needle where a few rows were knitted and
I tried the double wrap knit to create bigger stitches for 5 rows. I only
knitted 3 more rows before I began to decrease. I knitted a stitch and then two
together, knitted the rest of the stitches till only 3 were left on the needle
I knitted two together and knit the last stitch, this followed for every row
till there were only 20stitches left and I finished off the piece. I decided on
a cardigan because I personally doesn’t not like jerseys and jackets that is
closed, I like open garments. The front panels are 15 stitches each ranging
between the normal knitting and the double wrap for long stitches. The arms is
plain continental knitted in black so that the focus is more place on the front
and the back. I didn’t want a neckline because it uncomfortable and unnecessary.
I wanted to experiment with my garment, testing my own pattern and don’t work
from an original one. Ribbing were just incorporated in the arms for a tighter
fit where as for the edges around the garment I liked garments that are chunky
and hang loose as well as the roll up effect the knitting panels provide.
After the sewing up were done of all 5 pannels, i ran out of time and wished there were more time to put in a colour, but overall im happy with my first attempt of knitting a jersey!