The Materials task..!

Materials Task

Knitting and weaving differences:

Knitting and weaving are two different techniques but mostly gave the same result as a piece of art. In the process of knitting, it is made by using two-dimensional fabric which is made there in yarn or also known as thread. In the technique of weaving, the thread will always be in a straight line running parallel in lengthwise or also in crosswise. By contrast the yarn which is used in a knitted piece of fabric follows a course and create a synthetic loop on the top and bottom mean path of the yarn. A knitted garment can as much as 500% stretch it all depends on the yarn that is being used as well as the pattern one is busy following. This were in the beginning what knitting was made for because of the elastic or stretch to response to the wearer’s notions for example socks even hosiery. The thread that designers use in creating a weave is most of the time finer that what designers will use in a knitting pattern and for that reason it gave knitting the ability to form bulk and less draping that a fabric which if woven.

Different types of Ribbing:

The reason behind the design of rib stitches it that your garment doesn’t curl up vertically nor horizontally and that it remains a flat surface. It is also designed to give your knitting a rib effect or a vertical ridge. By the use of a basic rib it is made out of stocking stitch and reverse stocking stitch that is alternated. The stripes that the ribbing make is also known as wales. The yarn which is use in ribbing is passed between stiches, from the back of your work for the knit stiches, to the front for purl stitches. The knitted pieces which is ribbing will always feel thicker than stocking stitch so it has a firm fit, as well as it will be knitted in a smaller needle than what is used to knit the rest of the garment. Knitted ribbing is use in garments for the cuffs, the edged around the garments, scarves, mats, rugs as well as fitted thick winter garments.

Single Rib: a Single rib is made out of knit one, purl one. It is mainly used for the edge of the garments. Single rib is the most common use for knitted garments and also have the most elasticity.

 

Double Rib: By using double rib, it is not limited to just use as cuffs but can be use right through the whole body if the designer want a more snuggle fitted garment. The elasticity is is much less in double rib as it is in single rib.

 

Other Stiches that is used as ribbing to form panels: Both Garter as well as moss stich can be used in the sense of ribbing but is only use when one need a wider rib.

Farrow Rib Stitch: This ribbing is much neater than the rest with a flat appearance and slight stretch because of the moss stitch that took place between the ribs. When done correctly, both of the sides will look identically and is a bit more open than a basic rib. It is not made to be used as cuffs because its elasticity is weak. Each of the rows are knitted the same therefore it is easier to master the technique.

Sand Stitch rib: Using the technique of sand stitch ribbing, it is knitted in a vertical row with a sand stich between every second knitted stich in a rib pattern. It is mostly use to accommodate wider rib stitch patterns. It has a very neat finish as well as a different appearance and most of the elasticity is lost that a proper rib stitch contain. It is made out of a right and wrong side and is mostly not recommended for scarves neither edgings.

Fisherman’s Rib: This technique is originally invented for the fisherman which goes out in cold winter on the sea. This technique take up much more yarn than other ribbing almost doubled to be exact. It creates a think, soft spongy feeling garment where both sides look the same. An advantage of fisherman’s rib stretches both in width and length and forms deep loose ridges with a soft feeling.

 Mock Fisherman’s rib:  Mock Fisherman’s rib as different from original fisherman rib which gave a more loose rib with fairly prominent ridges. It mostly have the same characteristics as other types of ribbing where it has slight elasticity but lies flat and both sides are the same. It is also no as neatly as Fisherman’s rib but still is more attractive and always neat.

 

  Different types of Shoulders:

Drop Shoulder Sleeve:

The drop shoulder style is one of the simplest design pattern of any style sleeves. The body is shaped as a rectangular with very little shaping. The body with goes over the actual shoulder line and is possible that no sleeves is necessary making the garment into a pullover. The shape of the sleeves are also a basic rectangle that is finer by the wrist. The sleeve will always be created shorter than the actual arm size where the upper part of the sleeve does not reach the shoulder. The length of the upper edge of the sleeve equals two times the depth of the armscye. When the whole garment is put together the sleeves will form the right body angle.

Set-In Sleeve:

The lines of a set in sleeve express itself as simple but when shaping take place of each individual piece, it became more complex that what a drop shoulder is. The area of the shoulder is cut away so that that whole of the arm can be exposed. The armscye begin at the side seam which then curves to the body in an even increasing slope until the armscye line is more or less in a vertical line. The sleeve tapers from the bicep line towards the waist, where above the line of the bicep, the sleeve cap gently moves towards the shoulder point. Often you get knitted garments that are designed so that the sleeve cap and front and back armscye are symmetric where in reality, our bodies aren't that symmetric, but the stretch in knit fabric allows for this tiny cheat.

The Raglan Sleeve:

 When one want to pull of the casual or sporty look, raglan was the style to use. Instead of the armscye seam goes right over the shoulder, the sleeve of a raglan goes from the underarm to the neckline and results that the back panel, front panel as well as the sleeves are taper towards the neck. It all depends on what your garment design looks like, the upper edge of the raglan sleeve will form a substantial part of the neckline, and also may shape to blend with the curve of the front and backline. The seam edges of the back panel, front panel, as well as the sleeves are placed in a straight line which is formed by decreases at regular intervals. There will sometimes be a curve or as a tweak to fit in correct number of decreases before running out of the upper body as well as the sleeve rows.

The Dolman Sleeve:

 

 The Dolman style sleeve is directly formed with the rest of the body, where only substantial seams are put under the arms. There are a large amount of space provided under the arms to give movement, where the garment is usually very loose fitted even if the sleeve forearms are tight. They are usually designed as a one knitted design in two ways; either knit sideways like cuff to cuff of knitting from the front to the back. It is possible to alter this shape to provide angled sleeves with strategically placed increases and decreases or short rows, or alternatively by working the front and back separately.

Different types of Neck Shapes:

·         V-Neck

·         Crew Neck (a basic "T-shirt" or "rounded" neck opening)

·         "Sport" Neck (This neck most likely resemble a crew neck, except for the front of the yoke is slit open and plackets are knitted on each side of the opening.)

Gauge in knitted designs:

The term Gauge is both used in machine knitting and hand knitting. It refers to the number of stiches per inch where in our case if will work in centimetre and not to what the size of the garment are.it is measured by a number of stitches or even a number of needles over several centimetres which is then divided by the centimetres in width.

The gauge will also depend on how many stiches of the pattern fit into the fabric, the kind of yarn use, what size needle you use as well as the tension the knitter use. For example, the ribbing and also the cable patterns tend to "pull in" which gives more stitches over an identical width than stockinette, garter, or seed stitch. Even the same stitch produced in two different ways may produce a different gauge. Thicker yarns will produce larger stiches that what thinner needles would have produced. Because of the large stitches that larger needles provide, there will be fewer stitches in a row per centimetre. By changing one’s needles is the best possible way to have control over the gauge for any given pattern as well as yarn. The tension of the knitter plays a big role where it can affect the gauge significantly. One can play variation gauge in a single garment where when you become more relaxed with the stitch pattern one will become more relaxed to stitch differently and produce different gauge. Designers deliberately alter the gauge in a garment usually by needle size for example the smaller stitches will be knitted with smaller needles, this is usually used for the collar or the cuffs of the sleeves.

To produce a knitted garment where the dimensions are given, doesn’t matter if it is from one's own design or from a published pattern, the gauge must match as closely as possible; significant differences in gauge will lead to a deformed garment. Most patterns that once can buy will always suggest gauge for the project.

 

What I Did for my Garment:

Because I didn’t had any traditional pieces I could work off and also the reason of being far from home, it clogged my design thinking, material wise. Because I focused more on the person I am today and to things I can access, rather than trying to think into the past and not getting access to what I was maybe looking for, I decided to focus on tie dye because it stays a big part in who I am, and the mellow vibe I’m usually in.

T-shirt fabric is the easiest to dye and just my luck it came already in yarn form. There are 3 different balls in colour wise; black, white and light grey. The white I took and dyed half of it black making it another shade of grey, the black I first knitted and then dyed black merging the two shades of grey into each other.

We had to use the Raglan pattern. At first I was scared because I’m not a fashion designer and I don’t know how to make garments. We first had to draw out a regular pattern on paper followed by a raglan pattern. The arms also had to be worked out. The raglan front and back panels are easier to knit as the arms are. I chose the colours specifically to contrast the good and the bad in my life with the vines flowing of the tie dye method much so how my stories flowed.

The back I started with a 15mm needle, using 50 stitches, I knitted 12 rows and switched to a 20mm needle where a few rows were knitted and I tried the double wrap knit to create bigger stitches for 5 rows. I only knitted 3 more rows before I began to decrease. I knitted a stitch and then two together, knitted the rest of the stitches till only 3 were left on the needle I knitted two together and knit the last stitch, this followed for every row till there were only 20stitches left and I finished off the piece. I decided on a cardigan because I personally doesn’t not like jerseys and jackets that is closed, I like open garments. The front panels are 15 stitches each ranging between the normal knitting and the double wrap for long stitches. The arms is plain continental knitted in black so that the focus is more place on the front and the back. I didn’t want a neckline because it uncomfortable and unnecessary. I wanted to experiment with my garment, testing my own pattern and don’t work from an original one. Ribbing were just incorporated in the arms for a tighter fit where as for the edges around the garment I liked garments that are chunky and hang loose as well as the roll up effect the knitting panels provide.

After the sewing up were done of all 5 pannels, i ran out of time and wished there were more time to put in a colour, but overall im happy with my first attempt of knitting a jersey!